Hazardous Chemicals in Textiles
Zeng Ya-qi, Technical Marketing Division
How many clothes do you buy every year? How many garments do you purchase every season? As you put new clothes into your closet, you are probably bringing hazardous substances into your life.
The Secret Behind The Fashion
How many clothes do you buy every year? How many garments do you purchase every season? As you put new clothes into your closet, you are probably bringing hazardous substances into your life as well. In April 2012, to investigate the links between clothing brands and water pollution, Greenpeace purchased a total of 141 items of clothing from 29 countries and regions worldwide. NPEs, endocrines disrupting chemicals, were found in 89 garments, or 63% of those tested. According to the latest report by Greenpeace, toxic and hazardous substances were found in the products of some 20 world-famous fashion brands.
Pollution Caused by Apparels and Footwear Manufacturing
Taking advantage of low labor costs and inadequate environmental regulations in developing countries, many world-famous clothing brands unconsciously use persistent toxic substances in their manufacturing supply chain. In China, where the textile and leather industry plays an important role in the country’s economical growth, the persistent toxic substances released by textile dyer have become a major source of water pollution. After decomposition, two environmental endocrine disruptors, nonylphenol (NP) and perfluorinated compounds (PFCs) were released in water system. Even Carcinogenic chemicals can accumulate in water and back to food chain.
“Toxic Circulation” Is Becoming Apparent
When NPEs are used in dyeing, printing, and washing processes in garment manufacturing, some of these harmful chemicals are released into rivers and some remains on the garments, which are then sold and worn by consumers. During laundry, the remaining NPEs are released into rivers and the ocean, decomposing into toxic NP, and then ending up in the food chain.
Greenpeace’s Detox Campaign
Calling for a detox of the global fashion industry, Green Peace requested that all toxic chemicals should be phased out by 2020. In 2011, a group of major apparel and footwear brands and retailers made a joint commitment known as the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The group published the Joint Roadmap, along with specific promises and timetables. Their action sets new standards for the global apparel and footwear industry.
The 11 Priority Hazardous Chemicals
Under certain manufacture conditions, apparel and footwear may release hazardous substances harmful to the human body. The 11 priority hazardous substances by ZDHC Joint Roadmap are as follows:
Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) / nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs), phthalates, brominated chlorinated flame retardants, azo dyes, organotin compounds, perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), chlorobenzene, chlorinated solvents, chlorophenols, short-chain chlorinated paraffins, and heavy metals such as cadmium, lead, mercury, and hexavalent chromium.
Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs): In the aquatic environment, NPEs decompose into NP, which is persistent, bioaccumulative, and can cause endocrine disruption. Through the food chain, these toxins may end up in the human body.
Phthalates (commonly known as plasticizers): The main source of phthalates is the plastisol prints on clothes. The toxins evaporate into the atmosphere when the clothes are woren. Phthalates can be inhaled or ingested by customers and harm to human’s development and reproductive system, causing low sperm count in men and infertility in women.
Carcinogenic aromatic amines: Azo dyes are not all carcinogenic in themselves. However, under reductive conditions, some azo dyes break down to release 24 banned aromatic amines, which are carcinogenic to humans and animals.
Perfluorocarbons (PFCs): The best-known substance in this category is polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), the most famous brand name is Teflon. Perfluorochemicals are very stable, and their biodegradation is extremely slow. They have genotoxicity, male reproductive toxicity, neurotoxicity, and can cause endocrine disruption.
For more information:
Color Chemical Business Unit
TEL : +886-2-27066006
Email: Colorchem@ecic.com.tw
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